Reducing waste water in 5 stage spectramax

[euod]

I am tire of wasting 200 gal of water to make 50 gal of ro/di. My input is 70 ppm from the Tds. So I was told to take out the first three stages and just use the di to eliminate the waste water. Is that correct?
I could add a booster pump but how?
I could upgrade to a new 1:1 from spectramax, are we doing any group buy from them this year?

 

[Gomer]

you can run a straight DI unit, It will remove all the ions but I don't think it removes organics. Chloramine for example likely needs the carbon blocks for removal. You will go through DI resin a lot faster.

 

[euod]

If removing chlorine and chloramine is all there is to it, I can treat it as I do that anyway.

 

[GreshamH]

It has to be removed prior to hitting the DI stage I'm pretty sure.

What temp is your feed water? If you get it to mid 70's it'll have a better ratio.
What PSI are you running? Adding a booster pump will also help change your ratio.

 

[euod]

Oh well, there goes that idea. Pressure is 45-50 psi. Where should I install the booster, right next to the filter or more by faucet? Spectra said I could not do it but last year they came out with 1:1 using a booster. So what is their patent on this that we do not know?

 

[GreshamH]

They told you adding a booster pump isn't doable? They sell the pumps and recommended I get one though? I wonder what is different from yours and mine?

The 1:1 uses a pump and a different membrane IIRC

 

[euod]

Thanks. I'll call them again.

 

[99sf]

I don't know how to install a booster pump, but my Puratek unit came with one pre-installed, and it works great. Even though I am running my RO/DI filter off of a garden hose attachment (meaning not super high pressure), my treated water to waste-water ratio is about 1:1.25. Extremely happy!

 

[sfsuphysics]

If you want to remove the 'waste" remove the RO membrane, that's where all your wasted water comes from. Keep the prefilters, they'll take out organics (chloramine, etc) and the sediment filter will keep out chunks'o crap from clogging your carbon block(s). DI resin will strip out the rest.

A booster pump will not make a 1:1 waste:water ratio, it'll help with the ratio, but if you can get a 1:1 with a booster pump you can get almost 1:1 without the pump. If you do DI only, a pump is not necessary. If you do want to get the pump, simply put the pump before water hits the unit, and it'll up the pressure slightly.

 

[d0ughb0y]

I'm looking for ideas to reuse or eliminate the waste water.
I did not realize until recently that 4:1 is wasted.
I'll try bypassing the RO membrane idea.
for now I filter to a 5 gallon bucket at a time and put the waste water line to my washing machine, so for every 5 gallons filtered, I get one full load of water to wash clothes.

 

[Gomer]

/rambling thoughts

I've always wondered about RO/DI vs DI. Sure straight DI saves YOU on waste water and our water bill, but what "end of life cycle" for RO/DI vs DI?

With straight DI, you go through resin way faster. This means you have to use nasty chemicals to recharge (which to produce has a lot of backing energy/resources let alone dispose), or you throw the resi away. Not only is this a material waste issue now, but you are also a faster consumer of the raw materials to make the resin (which likely also has a high water value associated in production).

 

[GreshamH]

Isn't DI lifetime effected by PH as well?

I'd love to know just how much water, energy and chemicals go into the production of DI resin.

 

[Gomer]

Isn't DI lifetime effected by PH as well?

It should since the counter ions are trapped by the resin.

I'd love to know just how much water, energy and chemicals go into the production of DI resin.

I've looked into other end of use data and production costs data for unrelated items and it is a bit shocking (which is why I asked the question of is it really better).

I might have to look into it

 

[Marc]

There are a couple of way of increasing your output and wasting less water in your situation.

1) since your water pressure is already low - get a booster pump. They are very easy to hook up and will increase output over all. Membranes usually have an efficiency rating between 60-90 psi. Anything higher or lower, the mfg will void warranty.

2) in conjunction with the booster pump. Get another RO filter. Basically the waste water exits the first RO filter will be filtered by the second one.

The booster pump is a must with the low pressure. That would be my first step.

If you are running an RO unit w/o a pressure tank. Then you just install the booster pump AFTER the sediment filter and both carbon. But if you have a pressure tank or float valve- you have to install an automatic shut of valve so the booster pump turns off when the tank is full.

A: Feed Water Valve
B: Drain Saddle Valve
C: Ftr Housing 10 / PP Sediment Ftr
D: Low Press Switch
E: Booster Pump
F: Ftr Housing 10 / Granule Active Carbon
G: Ftr Housing 10 / Claval Active carbon
H: Auto shut off Valve
I : Membrane Housing/Rverse Osmosis Membrane
J: Check Valve Switch
K: Drain Restrictor
M: Stell Pressure Tank / FRP Pressure Tank(Optional)
N: Ball Valve
O: High Press Swith
P: Inline coconut Carbon Ftr
Q: Faucet

 

[northbay-reefer]

If you want to remove the 'waste" remove the RO membrane, that's where all your wasted water comes from. Keep the prefilters, they'll take out organics (chloramine, etc) and the sediment filter will keep out chunks'o crap from clogging your carbon block(s). DI resin will strip out the rest.

A booster pump will not make a 1:1 waste:water ratio, it'll help with the ratio, but if you can get a 1:1 with a booster pump you can get almost 1:1 without the pump. If you do DI only, a pump is not necessary. If you do want to get the pump, simply put the pump before water hits the unit, and it'll up the pressure slightly.

At what TDS reading do you think it is best run just prefilter/carbon/DI and take out the RO?