Jestersix

What kind of RO membrane are we supposed to use in the BA, with our cloramine water?

In terms of dealing with chloramines, the RO membrane needs to be protected from chloramines, but there is no chloramine-specific membrane. To protect the membrane, you want to have catalytic activated carbon followed by a carbon block in the first few stages. IIRC the catalytic activated carbon breaks up the bond between the chlorine and ammonia, and the carbon block absorbs the chlorine before it reaches and damages the RO membrane.

While changing the RO membrane, make sure you get a matching flow restrictor if you are changing the membrane's rated flow.
 
Koldster-il looks like any other RO system. What do you mean no waste water? I thought only that expensive Spectrapure unit didn't waste water?
 
That Kold Ster-il water filter is very interesting. But ....

I wonder about the 150,000 gallon claim on the filters. Seems amazingly high.

I also wonder about the chemistry. It seems to be just a carbon/poly filter.
I just do not see that gets all the impurities out. Seems like a phosphate issue waiting to happen.

My guess: It works great if you have good water to begin with, which a lot of us do in the bay area.
But be careful.
 
As mentioned membranes will not do the job, carbon will. I run two carbon blocks, and no special fancy ones that are "chloramine special" and have been doing it this way for as long as I've been reefing. While chloramines can reduce the usable life of carbon filters, by no means are standard carbon filters ineffective. Regardless of what certain people who sell the products will tell you :)

That said I run my output into another RO filter and chop my waste water in half. Is there still waste? Yeah, but that gets used in some way in my yard. I might have to look into one of these zero waste systems in the future though... gonna need lots of water. Although at $85 for a replacement cartidge (is that only one of the three?) every 6 months... I think I'd rather waste the water, but if it can truly give me 150,000 gallons... maybe it'll be worth it.
 
Vincerama2 said:
Guys, I forgot what type of RO membrane we're supposed to use so that it's not destroyed by chloramines....Vince
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To specifically answer the question:
In theory, a PVC based membrane would be OK. Good luck finding one.
Better is to eliminate the chloramines first.
 
It is funny, I have been tempted to buy a used RODI systems, and combine it with my current one.
As follows:
5 micron sediment filter
1 micron sedimenet filter
.6 micron carbon filter block (really just for sediment)
Refillable activated carbon canister #1
Refillable activated carbon canister #2
RO
Refillable DI canister

Why so many? o_O
Because it reduces time between changes, and I always procrastinate.
Each stage helps the stage afterwards last longer.
The first three can probably be replaced yearly, as they clog.
The refillable ones more often, but cheap to refill.
 
Yeah there's a reason why I have 4 DI chambers... I get really lazy with changing them, however the prefilters are usually not an issue, unscrew, put new one in, rescrew. I do get irritated if the first sediment filter isn't a black-tea color though :D One of these days I'll hook up a flow meter and actually see how much water I make, I suspect no where close to what the rating of the filters are.
 
sfsuphysics said:
One of these days I'll hook up a flow meter and actually see how much water I make, I suspect no where close to what the rating of the filters are.
Click to expand...

It would be worthwhile to put a pressure gage before the RO to see how much loss there is thru all the casually maintained :) pre-filters. I think that could be a big hit to production.
 
I have a couple pressure gauges simply because my water pressure is a bit on the low side on the hill here. I do have a booster pump too, pressure also tells me if something is a bit too clogged up.
 
sfsuphysics said:
I do get irritated if the first sediment filter isn't a black-tea color though :D
Click to expand...
I have clear housings for my RO/DI unit, and when I first hooked it up the first stage became black within the first week. Made me sick to my stomach thinking about all the water I've drank at this location!

Still glad I paid extra for the clear housings!
 
lattehiatus said:
In terms of dealing with chloramines, the RO membrane needs to be protected from chloramines, but there is no chloramine-specific membrane. To protect the membrane, you want to have catalytic activated carbon followed by a carbon block in the first few stages. IIRC the catalytic activated carbon breaks up the bond between the chlorine and ammonia, and the carbon block absorbs the chlorine before it reaches and damages the RO membrane.

While changing the RO membrane, make sure you get a matching flow restrictor if you are changing the membrane's rated flow.
Click to expand...
My GE Merlin "on demand" system has a very large pre filter that performs that function and needs to be replaced once or twice a year. Even with pre and post filtering, I can still discern a little bit of aromatic release from the final product. It sure beats the heck out of drinking/using non-treated water. Chloramine kills the pro-biotics in your digestive system. Getting off city water entirely except for laundry and dishes will improve one's health noticeably IMO.
 
Coral reefer said:
I just got the flow meter from brs. Looks like about 2.2 or so to 1 waste to product.
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They have a flow meter? I have to look again, I took a look the other day after reading this thread trying to see what extra goodies to add on. One thing that looks nice is the auto flush restrictor but they say that you need to use their booster pump kit to make it work (i'm guessing the power connectors)
 
Yep it runs off the same transformer. I am considering getting one of those eventually too. Pretty simple little gadget, like $45, but worth it for me id say. Too hard to keep track of him many gallons I've sent through my various filter stages.
 
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