I have no specific knowledge here, but observing from afar it sounds like it might make sense to do some more debugging before committing to them working. It sounds like maybe there's something loose or partially broken, and after heating up (or getting bounced around) it connected enough to work. Might make sense to leave it in a safe failure setup for a bit.So, the dimming function on my ati fixed itself overnight.
I don't really understand how. Maybe the internal battery on the controller needed a charge without the bulbs being powered? I've been scratching my head about it all morning.
I lowered it back down to about 8" off the water (to reduce light spill on my co-workers desk who insisted on sitting right next to the tank). Both channels at 35% gives me a peak par reading of 125 μmol on the bottom glass with no shading and some reflection off a vertical pane.
Tomorrow I will see what I'm getting on the top of the rocks. I may have to raise the light a little and just build a shroud for it. Lots of aluminum and a tig welder in our hanger so it won't be hard.
My new phone has a spectrometer! (Top right)View attachment 45193
What’s the easy way?My coworkers wanted to go coral shopping so we made a trip to sac and hit up Aqua Life, Your Reef and Aquarium depot.
Picked up some beautiful pieces at Your Reef. Found a couple frags at AD but I was really disappointed to see their flatworm infestation covering $1000 acanstrea. Any shop that can't manage or shrugs off something as easy to deal with as red planaria flatworms loses all respect from me.
Fair enough opinion.Predators and vaccum them out until you cant find any more. Treat with flatworm exit, suck out dying FW, water change and fresh carbon. Repeat every two weeks until you don't see them come out after treatment.
If a professional coral seller can't manage that, they have no business selling coral.