High Tide Aquatics

Julius' CDA 150 Build

I wouldn't add anything from the beach to my tank.

First, it's different climates warm tropical waters vs. the relatively cold temperate waters off our coast, so anything you add may die and end up just polluting your tank. Second, you don't know what those things are that you're adding, they may be parasitic, they may attack something you like in the tank, there's really no upside to beach collection.
 
So my very first Triton test result came back. Here is the link you can see the report:
https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/71624/

It shows two elements too high in the red zone. I'd love to hear any of you had these issues before and what caused them in your case.

1. Sn (Tin) 84 µg/l: Sources could be "metals near or in the aquarium (as rusty clamps or screws)" or contaminated salt/trace elements. I thought through equipment in both tank/sump and my water mixing station, and did not find any suspect.

2. Li (Lithium) 2002 µg/l: sources could be artificial rock, reef ceramics, food, trace elements overdose, contaminated salt. However, I can't figuer out what could be causing my tank's problem.

By the way, I did not see alk level as part of the Triton test?
 
Julius Chen said:
So my very first Triton test result came back. Here is the link you can see the report:
https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/71624/

It shows two elements too high in the red zone. I'd love to hear any of you had these issues before and what caused them in your case.

1. Sn (Tin) 84 µg/l: Sources could be "metals near or in the aquarium (as rusty clamps or screws)" or contaminated salt/trace elements. I thought through equipment in both tank/sump and my water mixing station, and did not find any suspect.

2. Li (Lithium) 2002 µg/l: sources could be artificial rock, reef ceramics, food, trace elements overdose, contaminated salt. However, I can't figuer out what could be causing my tank's problem.

By the way, I did not see alk level as part of the Triton test?
Click to expand...

Alk cannot be tested using ICP, it would have to be tested via another method if Triton wanted to include that measurement (which they don't). Besides, I don't think I'd trust an alk test from water that has live organiams that was sitting in a test tube for 2-3 weeks anyway.
 
Help me root cause pls.

I got following messages every few days. It states the Apex warning is now turned off and all equipment good?
But there was no earlier alarm about which equipment had issue.

I have an UPS providing DC power to Apex.


Status: OFF
Statement: Set OFF Date: 2019-12-08 09:21:57 -0800
 
Julius Chen said:
Help me root cause pls.

I got following messages every few days. It states the Apex warning is now turned off and all equipment good?
But there was no earlier alarm about which equipment had issue.

I have an UPS providing DC power to Apex.


Status: OFF
Statement: Set OFF Date: 2019-12-08 09:21:57 -0800
Click to expand...
In Apex Fusion look in the Alarm logs (warning triangle with exclamation point in it)
 
Adding some charts from Apex to help with diagnostics. There were two of the same events this morning, first happened 6:36am, and second about 3 hours later. Let's focus on the first one only.

The question is why I did not receive an alarm email when the return pump turned to OFF.

1st photo attached: Return pump logged an "ON" event at 6:36:45. There was no OFF event before this. If the return pump was never turned off, how could it log an "ON" event?
2nd photo: Email alarm "ON" event at same time 6:36:45. Is this about return pump turned OFF (refer to 4th photo for alarm configuration settings)? If so, how could it be timed exactly when return pump logged an "ON" event?
3rd photo: Apex Fusion Alarm Log had an "OFF" event at 6:37:18.

Then I received the following email -
Status: OFF
Statement: Set OFF Date: 2019-12-08 06:37:18 -0800

4th photo: the configuration of my alarm settings for reference.

Apex brain has a DC power from UPS, and the return pump is Reef Octopus DC pump plugged in Apex Fusion Energy Bar.

Thanks,
Julius
 

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Since the answer isn’t obvious, I recommend asking Neptune support for help directly. You can give them access to your system and I think they are much more likely to figure it out.
 
My H380 died. I am using a 12w PAR38 LED bulb as a short term fix.

Saw ebay has those hanging rectangle shaped grow light ranging from 45w-1000w+. What wattage will be right for me? Will 200w be too much? If dimmible, will power consumption be lower when dimmed?

Refugium is 17”x13”, light will be 12” above water, and a clear 1/4” thick acrylic cover in between.

8216DD55-475C-4114-9C5D-E0C5EF9C97BF.png
 
Be wary of those cheap grow lights, the wattage they say they are is often the equivalent wattage of the bulb, non led, that they replace. Not how many watts they really user
 
Personally I wouldn't bother, it's more trouble than it's worth. But if you REALLY want raise the young, you're not going to raise this batch you should be ready and have the setup you need to get them for the next batch, they absolutely can not survive in your reef tank though they will be food for everything.
 
What Mike said, they'll probably hatch at night, so if you can somehow time it, turn off your pumps and catch them great... however chances are you'll still have a 0% survival rate if you don't have a breeding setup ready to go. It's not as simply nor easy as say reproducing snails.
 
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