got ethical husbandry?

Julius' CDA 150 Build

I got a copperband buterfly fish 2 days ago from Violet Sea, not knowing it does not eat pellets.

Can somebody suggests ways to care for him?

I watched 2 videos. Currently feeding twice a day freeze dried mysis shrip. He nis not eating that but kept searching rocks. Bought brine shrimp hatchery kit but wont arrive till 10 days later.

Plan to go to neptune aquatics today to buy frozen food.

thanks!
 

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Julius Chen said:
Done!

The acrylic lid feltmuch harder and “dry” when drilling and tapping. Hard to tell what is the optimal drilling speed. Step drill helped.

First time doing tapping. Difficult to keep the bit stable at the beginning before the bit catches the material good. Toward the end, resistance to turning is quite strong, i was worried I might crack the lid.

The 1/4 connector now extends slightly below the lid. This leads to a pocket of air remaining in the reactor. I may give it a shave next time so it flushes with the wet side of the lid.

These days new cal reactors have the circulation pump taking water from the side of chamber. Better design than mine.
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When tapping it can get quite hard to turn. Instead of continuing I will back the tap out. Sometimes all it takes is a half turn and then you can continue again. Other times I need to take it all the way out and clean off the threads. It’s not uncommon when tapping metal for the tap to break off inside the hole. It’s very difficult to get it out once that happens.
 
oh boy Julius you jumped straight in for a tuff one. CBB’s are notorious picky eaters. Some will eat aptasia, some will eat frozen brine & mysis, and some will NOT eat at all. Did you ask to see it eat at the LFS before purchase? If so, what did the store feed it, you should continue feeding it whatever the store had already trained it to eat.
CBB are beautiful fish, but if you can’t train it to eat frozen, you may be at a losing cause. Many people that have their hearts set on keeping one have most times had to buy several until they finally found the RIGHT one that will accept our food.
good luck,
ps, for what is worth, i had a pair that ate only clams on the half shell. they were super fat and happy until one day they decided to fight and kill each other.
 
Try live black worms.
And if this one doesn’t make don’t buy another. In my opinion this is a fish that really shouldn’t be brought in at all since they do not do well most times.
 
Newjack said:
oh boy Julius you jumped straight in for a tuff one. CBB’s are notorious picky eaters. Some will eat aptasia, some will eat frozen brine & mysis, and some will NOT eat at all. Did you ask to see it eat at the LFS before purchase? If so, what did the store feed it, you should continue feeding it whatever the store had already trained it to eat.
CBB are beautiful fish, but if you can’t train it to eat frozen, you may be at a losing cause. Many people that have their hearts set on keeping one have most times had to buy several until they finally found the RIGHT one that will accept our food.
good luck,
ps, for what is worth, i had a pair that ate only clams on the half shell. they were super fat and happy until one day they decided to fight and kill each other.
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I used to buy scallop and clams. Crack open the clam and drop it in the water. They fed on it like crazy but it was a gamble(fear of parasites) and pain to clean and prepare every other day.but they fed on it good.
 
ofzakaria said:
I used to buy scallop and clams. Crack open the clam and drop it in the water. They fed on it like crazy but it was a gamble(fear of parasites) and pain to clean and prepare every other day.but they fed on it good.
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that’s exactly what I was doing! & all the same worry’s I was going through.
The CBB’s loved it, and were always super fat.
 
fyi, “black worms” are NOT the same a tubifex worms ( black worms your discus eat).
Black worms are pretty hard to find locally, last time I fed my CBB those, @Vhuang168 did a group buy on them.
 
I bought from here multiple times. It might help you keep your CBB alive to transition to frozen. AC would buy from them and kept some in the fridge they would sell by the ounce.

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ofzakaria said:
I used to buy scallop and clams. Crack open the clam and drop it in the water. They fed on it like crazy but it was a gamble(fear of parasites) and pain to clean and prepare every other day.but they fed on it good.
Click to expand...
Are clams more prone to parasites or did you fear it just because it didn’t go through any qt?
 
Flagg37 said:
Are clams more prone to parasites or did you fear it just because it didn’t go through any qt?
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I do not know about that.i would think in general buying dead seafood from grocery stores will always bring with it some level of risk..even it not dead, the setting of a seafood isle have certain level of contamination risk...I think.
 
I fed my eel raw table shrimp from Costco. It was frozen though so I would think that would kill any parasites. I’m assuming the clams were fresh.
 
Flagg37 said:
I fed my eel raw table shrimp from Costco. It was frozen though so I would think that would kill any parasites. I’m assuming the clams were fresh.
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Typical home freezers are not usually suitable to completely kill parasites because they do not get cold enough.

Here are the recommended freezing temps and duration from the FDA for killing parasites in fish for human consumption:

"The temperature of the freezing process, the length of time the fish is held frozen, and the type of parasite appear to be the most important factors. For example, tapeworms are more susceptible to freezing than are roundworms. Flukes appear to be more resistant to freezing than roundworms.

Freezing and storing at an ambient temperature of -4°F (-20°C) or below for 7 days (total time), or freezing at an ambient temperature of -31°F (-35°C) or below until solid and storing at an ambient temperature of -31°F (-35°C) or below for 15 hours, or freezing at an ambient temperature of -31°F (-35°C) or below until solid and storing at an ambient temperature of -4°F (-20°C) or below for 24 hours are sufficient to kill parasites."

Source: https://www.fda.gov/media/80777/download
 
I was testing cal reactor effluent after replacing the media with new.

In the past, I needed the PH at 5.90 to get effluent to 10~13 DHK out of the old media. Re-calibrated the probe multiple times but did not help.

Today's test was done after the new media reached PH 5.90 for about 5 hours. The effluent was running at 10 ml/min. I just tested tank water showing alk at 8.0. I know a few days ago the tank water was ~7.5.

No visible stress in the tank.

In process to elevate PH to 6.30, while continue to test effluent every 5~8 hours.

Also slowed down effluent rate to 5 ml/min. to avoid dumping DHK. Should I slow it down even more?
 
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