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LED Q&A thread

Yeah, I don't think I'll be tapping, I don't see the necessity for it. I'll start a thread with my build when I win the auction.

Sorry jar, I asked him and he didn't have anymore nor could he give me some kind of part #.
 
Let me re verify I'm buying the right things...

x12 Cree XR-E Q5 = $52.32
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394
OR Cree XR-E R2 = $61.2
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15943
I'm guessing the more expensive one is better?

x12 XR-E Royal Blues = 75.48 @ nanotuner
Supplier = ???? Maybe nano tunners if I cant find anything cheaper

X2 Meanwell ELN-60-48D 39.95 x 2 = $ 79.9
http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=71&products_id=630

X24 Thermal Pads (I'm sure they're cheaper else where but it'll prob even out on shipping)
http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?products_id=627
.49 x 24 = $ 11.76

Housing TBD ~ $50-70

Ebay Heatsink $34 Shipped

power supplies ???? Or do the meanwells hook up to the wall?


Total Estimated Cost: $301
 
sfsuphysics said:
Q5 is a good white bin led
R2 are the red ones, don't want those.
Click to expand...

lol, but but ... this!

Pros: I bought three of these to replace te leds of the bike-lights (sku18307). The original leds were blue, and not very bright.
Simply replacing the original leds with these XR-E R2 leds makes these bikelights very bright (and white instead of blue).


S) it's very confusing, Esp with something like this that's been DIY for a few years, alot of the guides are old and sometimes the advice is out dated. So I'm trying to make sure I didn't have any lapse in research.
 
sfsuphysics said:
R2 are the red ones, don't want those.
Click to expand...
I do believe, good sir, that you are missinformed :)

R2 is purely a lumen/watt binning of cree's white LEDs
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/5735/flux.jpg
 
Hey Tim,

I don't think you will be able to fit the LEDs under the slot on the heat sink I'm looking at.
It seem you have about 1/8" between the flat surface and the slot where you intended to place the glass. Am I loooking at the wrong place?
 
Oh, I used a drill press and drillling was a brease. Then tapping was just tedious, but everything was done is maybe 3 hrs with no broken tips... I think the trick of the hole process is the drill press. Just make sure you use lubricant when drilling and tapping. I used motor oil and it worked just fine. Go 1/4 turn and go back with the tapping and you should be fine.
 
Gomer said:
sfsuphysics said:
R2 are the red ones, don't want those.
Click to expand...
I do believe, good sir, that you are missinformed :)

R2 is purely a lumen/watt binning of cree's white LEDs
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/5735/flux.jpg
Click to expand...
I believe I might have been (bin? :D) misinformed. I got my information via the cree's data sheet linked at the website that was selling the emitter, which the only R2 binning on there shows red.
 
Ah, well if it doesn't fit I can always mount some acrylic on some C type brackets and just slide them in.

Do you know where I can get some liquid flux and a dispenser?

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000PDL0Q0/ref=pd_luc_mri?_encoding=UTF8&m=A2QE1R98UNI0YZ&v=glance

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000BQPX8W/ref=pd_luc_mri?_encoding=UTF8&m=A1SV1BYDTUK2Z5&v=glance

I really hate working with paste flux and rosin core solder but I cant seem to find it anywhere + I don't want to pay 9 bux to ship a $2 item

Also so Q5 or R2?
 
So I think a few of my LEDs (2) blew out, one white and one blue. How can I be sure because there is still current flowing through all the rest. These lights have done a few strange things including lighting up even if the circuit isn't closed.
 
Why not buy some of those cheapo 9-LED flashlights that EVERYONE sells (Walgreens, Toys R Us, probably Safeway), dismantle them, then provide them with an AC adapter? I think they just use a single AA battery?

V
 
If I wanted to use 2 of these can I use just 1 wall wart?

0-10VLM317.jpg


Should I connect them in parallel or in series?
 
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