Cali Kid Corals

Thinking of downgrading from 400W bulbs

UPGRADE. Just think, a 400g euro-braced tank!!! I bet they'd make it 3" thick if you asked :lol:
 
and although it sounds crazy, you can smartly insulate the back of your tank.

Also, you can minimize some evaporation by partially capping the garage tanks. If you have a "nearly direct" skimmer effluent into your garage tanks, that may be enough gas exchange to fully cap (at least fully cap the chaeto ball tank)
 
The rear panel is @ 1.5" thick plus having an acrylic sheet sandwiched in between, just how much would insulating effect it?
 
GreshamH said:
No NO UPGRADE!!!! bigger, badder, and most of all, more expensive :lol:
Click to expand...

Bad news with that is I would need to do the same for my house. already pushing it with the 180g

orientalexpress said:
the only change i would do is dump the mag 18 and replace with eheim 1262 or 1260.i would leave the close loop alone since u like it.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure I looked into this when I upgraded and the biggest issue was the head from the garage to the tank. Don't think I could get there with any of the eheim pumps. Plus my theory would be Mags run warmer which would I would guess decreas the heater time needed somewhat.

sfsuphysics said:
I forget your system, you have a CL supplied by a pump plus the pump from the sump to the tank? That CL pump you mentioned was a Dart I think earlier, which is a fairly efficient pump 150W or so. Compared to a vortech's 20-30watts (depending upon the mode you put it on, would save you 120watts x 24hrs x 30days or about 86.4 kWh per month which is a pretty significant hunk of energy, maybe even so much to drop you into a lower tier for. However even at 30cents per kWh that's only about $26 a month. So payback on that Vortech will be more than a year.
Click to expand...

You are correct about the plumbing. I think if i were to change something the CL would be the way to go because not only would i save on the power from the DART, i would also save on that for the 4 way.


Thanks for all of the input guys. I amy try a few things with insulation etc but it looks like it is what it is.
 
seminolecpa said:
GreshamH said:
No NO UPGRADE!!!! bigger, badder, and most of all, more expensive :lol:
Click to expand...

Bad news with that is I would need to do the same for my house. already pushing it with the 180g
.
Click to expand...

No one said it would be painless :D
 
maybe that is why my skimmer pump died a long time ago, it was on a timer...on and off once a day. My 220 is not at a LFS any longer :)

And I agree if its not broke don't fix it....just replace the whole thing. : )
 
You could consider a manifold off of your Reeflo to help eliminate a few of the maxijets. I haven't seen your setup, but you could potentially remove the Mag7 and a couple of the Maxijets (like the one to the BRS reactor and maybe the fuge one as well.)

I run my BRS reactor and calcium reactor off of my Reeflo Snapper return pump. It might be a pain to replumb though...
492836885_kdFGM-L.jpg
 
Good idea Jason except my CL pump is under my tank and all my other stuff is in the garage. Plus you would be really surprised at how much the OM 4way kills the output from the Dart.
 
seminolecpa said:
Good idea Jason except my CL pump is under my tank and all my other stuff is in the garage. Plus you would be really surprised at how much the OM 4way kills the output from the Dart.
Click to expand...


Also, you don't want to open a closed loop :O
 
Kill the OM. Put a manifold with around the top of the tank run it on a timer. Add a vortech. Ditch the 400's and go with 4 250's, 2 10 k and 2 20 k running at different times to make up for the PAR loss. Shrink your tank to a 150...oh, this is my tank...
'
 
In addition to the Macs, does everyone need to wear black turtlenecks, black rimmed glasses, sip lattes and drive Prius's to this event?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top