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Meshmez's IM EXT 112

Meshmez

Supporting Member
Ok I think my rockwork is finalized. It's really hard to show the depth in pics. Tape measure is set at water height.

Left view:
20220305_125509.jpg

Left front corner:
20220305_125445.jpg


Front:
20220305_125433.jpg
20220305_125422.jpg


Right front corner:
20220305_125409.jpg


Right side:
20220305_125404.jpg


Top view:
20220305_125526.jpg
 

Meshmez

Supporting Member
I have read about APS stands and the 5/16" foam PVC floors on the stands being too flexible to load with sump and such. I broke out the table saw that @xcaret found the great deal on, and cut a piece of 1/2" plywood to help support the PVC.
20220417_144105.jpg

It makes the floor much less flexible.
20220417_144328.jpg

20220417_145824.jpg


Any ideas for making the floor of the stand a waterproof catch basin? Obviously the PVC is waterproof. Should I try to attach PVC sidewalls to it? Use some kind of tape to seal it to the bottom rails of the stand?
 

Da_Neefer

Supporting Member
I would highly recommend some exterior grade spar urethane and completely coat the plywood with 3-4 coats worth. Doing this will be 100% worth it as the glue in most plywood is water based and will degrade the board severely if it gets wet and stays wet with small spills and drips.

This doesn't handle your waterproof tub concept but it will help long term. You could create a tub using starboard and seal the seams with silicone or a thick epoxy coating to create a homemade tub. If you were doing that then maybe ditch the foam board and plywood altogether.
 

Qwiv

Supporting Member
For the tub, you can actually by PVC sheets and glue them just like pipe with PCV glue vs Starboard. It is common to see this material sold as Siding so at Home Depot etc it is precut into 6" boards for exterior siding/trim.



Nice scape/tank.
 
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Meshmez

Supporting Member
I would highly recommend some exterior grade spar urethane and completely coat the plywood with 3-4 coats worth. Doing this will be 100% worth it as the glue in most plywood is water based and will degrade the board severely if it gets wet and stays wet with small spills and drips.

This doesn't handle your waterproof tub concept but it will help long term. You could create a tub using starboard and seal the seams with silicone or a thick epoxy coating to create a homemade tub. If you were doing that then maybe ditch the foam board and plywood altogether.
Thanks for the suggestions. I normally give plywood floors on my stands a thick coat of paint, and haven't had an issue with that. Since this one is sunk in, I figured I might be able to make it a waterproof tub.
For the tub, you can actually by PVC sheets and glue them just like pipe with PCV glue vs Starboard. It is common to see this material sold as Siding so at Home Depot etc it is precut into 6" boards for exterior siding/trim.



Nice scape/tank.
Have you done this? I actually have some 1/4" sheet, and I have heard you can bond just like pipe, but I haven't ever tried to actually bond it.
 
I have read about APS stands and the 5/16" foam PVC floors on the stands being too flexible to load with sump and such. I broke out the table saw that @xcaret found the great deal on, and cut a piece of 1/2" plywood to help support the PVC.
View attachment 37406
It makes the floor much less flexible.
View attachment 37407
View attachment 37408

Any ideas for making the floor of the stand a waterproof catch basin? Obviously the PVC is waterproof. Should I try to attach PVC sidewalls to it? Use some kind of tape to seal it to the bottom rails of the stand?
I made a “tub” out of PVC sheet from TAP Plastics; I believe it was 1/4”
It’s in the cube cabinet at Seven Stills; maybe @Tim Obert can snap a picture of it?
 

Qwiv

Supporting Member
Did you just apply the PVC solvent to the edge of the vertical piece, press it down, and fixture it in place until it dries?
yep, glue it just like pipe for the gluing part, but treat it like glueing carpentry as it can set up quick and doesn't self align like a plumbing fitting. Just make sure you get it in place, small jiggle and lock it where it goes and go a little heavy on the glue compared to pipe. Practice on 2 pieces of scrap so you know what to expect as it sets up fast.
 
Did you just apply the PVC solvent to the edge of the vertical piece, press it down, and fixture it in place until it dries?

At first I had a hard time because I wanted it to be a perfect seam but gave up. Ran the brush along the edge with plenty of solvent/glue (gray); worked the bottom and opposite sides, then I bonded the other two pieces. Keeping them upright was the most challenging part but some full soda cans helped a lot along with masking tape.
 

RandyC

Supporting Member
I’ve never done it, but couldn’t you use some 90 clamps like the ones below to set up the sides of the tub, put the glue on, and then just quickly place the bottom of the tub on the clamped sides?

43EC7B83-3EC7-46C5-9BB6-64DCAAF9C030.png
 

Meshmez

Supporting Member
Decided to just use packing tape to "seal" the base of the stand. It's probably not the best option, but it was pretty easy, and I figure it will give me a little time for leak sensors to go off and catch it.
20220612_134246.jpg
 

Meshmez

Supporting Member
@Meshmez looking from the side view starfire, does your panel look blueish or greenish? my established old current IM 50g is more blue than my new IM 100ext.

This new 100ext looks like my previous new SCA 150. They claim it's starfire, but the panels aren't blueish, more greenish. I know SCA got the panels from China, maybe IM is starting to do that too to save cost and profit.
@popper Its kinda hard to tell. It's definitely low iron, but maybe not as low as true starphire.
20220612_152437.jpg
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